Landing in Lisbon – my first 24 hours as a solo female traveler

I chose Lisbon as my first city mostly because I was able to find a one-way, direct flight from Newark for $219. It was also a good starting location because I’d been there once before with my boyfriend Evan. We’d spend 5 days there in 2018 and had fallen in love with the city, so much so that we even named our first cat “Lisbon” two years later. 

Lisbon 2018

I landed in the city at 6 am, exhausted and full of nervous energy. As I stepped out of the airport and into the warm Portuguese air, with its deep blue sky and proud-standing palm trees, memories of the last time I’d been here came flooding back. Successfully navigating the metro into center city gave me confidence and hope that my first solo backpacking adventure might not be an utter failure. Little did I know at the time, it would ultimately be my greatest accomplishment.

Adventure was on the brain, but my body craved familiarity after the long journey. It was 8 am by the time I stepped off the metro. After a sleepless 7 hour flight, I needed one thing and one thing only: coffee. Or maybe espresso since I was in Europe. 

The last time I’d been in Lisbon, Evan and I ate breakfast at the same cafe every day. Pastelaria Batalha has great coffee, a friendly atmosphere, and, most importantly, vegan options. I ordered an espresso and a hummus sandwich and set to journaling about how nervous I was, asking myself over and over if this trip had been a mistake. Coffee definitely didn’t help the nerves. 

I tried people watching, something I’d heard was a fun pass-time for other solo travelers. The cafe was filled with tourists: couples, families, friends. I was struck with the overwhelming feeling that I was completely alone. I’d spend my life surrounded by people I know: parents, siblings, friends, boyfriends, college roommates. I’d never eaten alone at a restaurant before, much less traveled to a different country. And suddenly, there I was.

After wasting an hour at the cafe trying to collect my emotions, I decided a long walk was much needed. I stashed my enormous backpack in a luggage storage center and set off exploring the beautiful, hilly city.

I ventured to a viewpoint overlooking Lisbon, one of my favorite places from the last time I’d visited. I sat on a bench and just breathed. Meditation doesn’t come naturally to me. 

I also took the metro to the Jardim Amália Rodrigues, a place we hadn’t had time to see previously. I wandered through the gardens, taking everything in. It’s easiest to experience beauty when you are completely alone and without distraction. 

I walked over 20,000 steps that day, something I quickly became accustom to throughout my travels. When I finally retrieved by backpack and located my hostel, I was a zombie. This wasn’t my first time staying at a hostel, but it was my first time staying alone (alone-liness is becoming a trend if you can’t already tell).

The Lisbon Hostel was huge. It felt clean and safe, and the best part was the rooftop overlooking the city. I only spent one night at this hostel, but looking back, it was one of the nicest at which I stayed. 

The first thing I did when I entered my dorm room was look up flights home. I’m embarrassed to admit that I wasn’t sure how long I would last on this trip, and I hadn’t booked a return flight. But I quickly put my phone away and tried to push the idea of returning home out of my head. I had been dreaming of this trip for years. I wasn’t going to let some nerves get in my way. 

Communal showers are always awkward. Hostel showers are no exception. I wasn’t yet comfortable enough to walk the hallway to the bathroom in only my towel. I brought way too much stuff into the shower and when I was finished, everything was slightly wet and I couldn’t figure out how to make my shower shoes dry enough to walk back to my room without tracking water everywhere. I really hope no one slipped. 

When I returned to the dorm room, I met my first solo traveller. I wish so badly I could remember her name, because she was one of the coolest people I’ve met. She grew up in Canada, and had become a commercial airline pilot in China. I remember saying something along the lines of “that’s incredible. I could never do that.” To which she replied, “oh yes you could. It’s so easy! You should try it.” Is it symbolic that the first woman I met on my trip encouraged me to fly? Or just cheesy? 

I had dinner at restaurant I’d been to before called Organi Chiado. They have delicious food in massive portions. It’s a slightly nicer restaurant, so I wondered how weird I must have looked eating alone. After a single glass of white wine, I didn’t really care if I looked weird. I must have paid close to $20 for that meal (what was I thinking????) but it was worth it after such a long day. 

I returned to my hostel and climbed to the roof to watch the sun set. A few french girls lay on the ground a few feet away from me, gossiping and smoking cigarettes. On my other side was a solo traveler from Uruguay who I chit chatted with a bit. It was her first time in this city, and she was in absolute awe of the beauty. Watching the sky turn from blue to orange to purple as the sun set over the city, I couldn’t help but feel the same way. 

Up next -> The Adventure Continues – Exploring the Beaches of Lagos


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