Granada’s Free Tapas

Backpackers are the friendliest people in the world. I had just gotten off my bus from Cordoba, and was on an extremely cramped public bus to my hostel when 2 young American guys moved over so I could sit next to them and started a conversation as if we’d known each other for years. This was a common occurrence throughout my travels. It brings me so much joy to be a part of something so open and friendly. I’m not saying I have never come across a grouchy backpacker, but the majority are so open and friendly. 

I said goodbye to my 15-minute friends when I reached my stop. Granada has more of a “college feel” than the other Spanish cities I’d visited. Teenagers and young adults are hanging out everywhere – restaurants, parks, or even just on the street. I’ll admit, I didn’t love Granada at first. The architecture isn’t as rustic, and the buildings feel very modern. But it’s just such a fun place to be. 

Granada has tons of “miradors” which are essentially viewpoints of the city that you have to climb to. After dropping my bags off at my hostel, I decided I needed to see the city from above. I wish I could tell you after climbing up cobble lined hill after hill, I reached a serene park with a beautiful view of the city, but I would be lying. I couldn’t freaking find the place!

Google maps failed me. I was trying to reach the Mirador de San Cristobal, and I have no clue where I went wrong. I definitely saw some nice views, but after wandering around for an hour, I had to give up and go back to the hostel for dinner. Hanger was getting the better of me.

I picked up some pasta , asparagus, and tomato sauce on the way back, and began cooking. Some Australian girls joined me in the kitchen, and we shared the space, chatting a bit. The hostel was called El Granado Hostel. It was great for solo travelers like me because it had such a social vibe.

I finished cooking and sat down at the long, communal dining table. Instantly, an Irish boy named Fin asked me my name. He was easy to talk to, and eventually a whole group of us had formed.

The hostel was holding a tapas tour that night. As a general rule in Granada, if you order a drink, you get a free tapa. I wish I could remember the names of the bars we went to. I ordered tinto de verano at each one and tasted the most delicious olives, bread, potatoes, falafel, chips, and more.  

By the end of the night, we were getting yelled at for talking too loudly in the hostel lobby at 3 am. I went to sleep buzzing with happiness. 

I only slightly regretted going to sleep at 3 am when I had to get up early the next day to visit the Alhambra, the main tourist attraction in Granada. I hadn’t realized how early you needed to book your tickets for this place when I left for my trip. When I told Krista in Portugal that I didn’t have my tickets yet (a week earlier) she yelled at me and told me I needed to book them that instant. Oops? There were still a few options available, luckily. So if you, dear reader, ever go to Granada, make sure you book your Alhambra tickets very far in advance.

The Alhambra is a palace/fortress that was built in 889 AD from Roman ruins. It has tons of history – from Roman times to the Christian Reconquista to the Renaissance. Despite its age, it is still one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. One of the most amazing features is the views of Granada and the southern Spanish landscape. I would recommend spending 3 hours here AT LEAST to wander through the fortress and palace and gardens.

I brought my lunch (pasta leftovers from the night before) and sat on a bench staring at the sprawling city beneath me.  No matter which way I faced, I was looking at a painting.

There are also tons of stray adorable cats living in the fortress, an added bonus for a crazy cat lady like me. The signs specifically said “do not touch,” but that didn’t stop me from going “psst psst psst” and wiggling my finger to try to get their attention. 

Luckily, I visited the Alhambra on the earlier side. It started to get crowded in the early afternoon, which is when I decided to leave. I’d taken a tiny, cramped bus all the way up the hill to the fortress, but I decided to walk back to my hostel. This was to be one of my last full days in Spain, and I wanted to take in every moment possible before leaving this amazing country.

I returned to my hostel and indulged in a much needed siesta. 

Afterwards, I met up with my new friends in the hostel kitchen and convinced them to accompany me to a VEGAN restaurant called El Ojú! I ordered the fried calamari (I never thought I could find vegan calamari in Southern Spain) and it was freaking amazing. The restaurant was great, but we were the only ones eating there. Hopefully it’s just because we decided to have dinner on the earlier side (Spanish people eat dinner at 10 pm) and not because it doesn’t get much business. 

After dinner, we decided it was time for drinks. We found a cheap but lively bar and ordered the biggest vodka tonics I’ve ever seen in my life. I was drunk before I was halfway through. Not too drunk though — just a nice amount of drunk 🙂 

More tapas accompanied the drinks (free of course). We had started an impromptu pub crawl, deciding to check out a jazz bar next. I opted for a small glass of wine. Next was a tiny gyro shop where I ordered a massive falafel sandwich for $2.50. We all crammed in the shop, half drunk, and dousing our sandwiches with hot sauce. This is one of my favorite memories of my trip. 

Finally, the girls decided that we wanted to go dancing. We stumbled down the street to another bar (I wish I could remember the names of these places). The staff started playing American music for us when we came in and we danced for hours. The most hilarious part is that the 8 of us were the only people in the bar. I’m not sure what the bar tender thought of us crazy tourists, but I don’t care because I was having so much fun. 

Drunk on life and vodka, we headed back to the hostel. We sat outside on the sidewalk talking, trying to be quiet so we wouldn’t get yelled at like the night before. It was strange feeling so close to people I’d only known for 2 days. And yet when I stood up, ready for sleep, I felt so sad saying goodnight to them and knowing I was leaving the next day.

One regret I have about this trip was how much I’d planned beforehand. My bus and hostel for the next day had been booked for months. If I could go back, I would have probably stayed another night. Granada has some amazing hikes, and the group I was hanging with planned to go the next day. I had horrible FOMO looking at their pictures later on.

Before my bus, one of the boys (Adam) and I decided to give the mirador one more chance. I was doubtful that we were going to be able to find it. We climbed back up the hill and began our search. Finally, after 20 minutes of looking for this place, we discovered a small staircase next to a building. It was easy to miss. We ventured up the stairs and there it was – the  Mirador de San Cristobal!

I felt the greatest sense of accomplishment looking out over the city. But it was time to move on. Adam and I hugged goodbye and I quickly left for my bus, which would take me to my final destination in Spain. 

Up Next –> Bed Bugs and Traffic Jams – My Time in Malaga


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